Love it or Hate it: Andouilette

Whenever I have to do some serious shopping I go to Avignon, or, to be more precise to Le Pontet, a big shopping center in the northern part of Avignon. Just about every time I am there I meet a man I really do consider to almost be a friend now: the charming Mr. Raki who works at in the meat department  of Auchan. Blessed with an enormous sense of humour, a fabulous gift of the gab and just plain Gallic charm, Mr. Raki is usually to be found manning a small BBQ station. If the delicious smells wafting all over the place don't draft you towards him, some quirky remarks almost certainly will. And then he makes you taste: little morsels of tender lamb, delicious sausages, tiny strips of beef fillet. And he succeeds everytime:  I just can't help but add whatever he is promoting into my shopping basket.

The charming Mr. Raki

Except last Wednesday. For this time Mr.Raki was grilling Andouilettes. And if there is one thing in the whole big world of French culinary wonders I will not eat it is Andouillettes. Not because they are made of tripe. I do eat tripe if it is well prepared - Tripe à la Florentine can be delicious.

But I draw the line at Andouilettes. Because they smell. They smell in a way that turns my stomach. Most French people love them. There is no BBQ where you don't find a few of those stinkers happily sizzling away. But this is one of those things you either love to eat or hate to even have to smell. Even Mr. Raki couldn't tempt me into tasting them. And that means something.

Andouilettes - tripe sausages

Countdown to Christmas in Provence

The festive season is in full swing here in Provence - this weekend we have been celebrating so much that I almost feel I should skip the real holidays and go on a New Year's diet straight away. It all started Friday with a trip to Avignon - not to see the rather lacklustre Christmas Market but the huge Crèche (nativity scene) at the Hôtel de Ville (Lord Mayor's house). More than 600 santons (the traditional Provençal nativity figurines) are set into a valley depicting life in Provence as it used to be. (If you click on the photos to enlarge them you can see all the pretty details).

The big Crèche at the Lord Mayors house in Avignon

The on we went to the Palais du Roure just around the corner, where this delightful lady (below) was guarding another, much smaller but also very pretty crèche and explaining the "Treize desserts de Noël" and why the frist week of December we seed lentils or wheat to have the green sprouts on the table in time for Christmas (this is supposed to guarantee money all year round).

Night fell and on we went to the Hotel La Mirande just below the Pope's Palace to the grand opening of the hotel's Christmas market.

For me the main attraction there was this monsieur, the "Roi des Pois Chiches" (King of the Chickpeas), who, gifted with a fabulous personality and an unparalled gift of the gab sold chickpeas, chickpea flour and pots of poichichade, a delicious chickpea dip.

In the beautiful old kitchen of La Mirande I was more than delighted to meet Nathalie, whose blog Avignon in Photos I have been following for quite a while and who I admire for her creativity, her unique eye and sense of style. Can't wait to see this still life in her blog!

Cooking demonstration in the kitchen of La Mirande

After slaving in my kitchen all day long (more on that later) Saturday night found us at the

Cave la Vigneronne in the beautiful village of Villedieu where the new wines of 2011 where presented in the cellar of the Cave.  

Delighted with their find - guests at La Vigneronne

When in France you eat when you drink. On the menu: Oysters from Bretagne and walnuts and cheeses from Provence

Yum!

For dessert: fruit tarts

and cream filled choux 

We all left rather happy - thank you Alain for driving us!

Sunday we had our official Christmas picture taken and made our friends take a more or rather less orderly queue towards the kitchen stove where a big pot of Goulash was simmering.

I always serve this Ghoulash at what we call our "Countdown to Christmas" - a happy and informal get together of friends around the Christmas tree with Ghoulash, a cheese board, some desserts and lots of red wine.... 

Desserts this year: Mince pies made by my friend Nadira, also known as Queen of Confitures

Pecan Tart and

Tiramisu made by moi  

Dancing around the Christmas tree!

Cuisine de Provence wishes you all very

 Happy Holidays

and a Happy, Healthy and Peaceful

NEW YEAR 2012!

Meeting my Culinary Hero

Went to the beautiful "La Mirande" hotel in Avignon the other day to follow a cooking demonstration held by chef Bruno D'Angelis. Came back with some fun recipes - "Cream of Broccoli with Oysters", a simple but very tasty "Tartine of Crispy Vegetables" and a "Chocolat Soup" that I cannot wait to try out. But best of all: I got to meet my culinary hero Christian Etienne who popped in to watch his young colleague. Etienne is a very well know chef with a beautiful restaurant right next to the Pope's Palace in Avignon and very popular because he has a show every morning on Radio Bleu Vaucluse where listeners phone in to ask him all kinds of culinary questions. If you happen to be in the region tune in on 100.4 at 10.00 am Monday to Friday to listen to Christian Etienne.

With Bruno D'Angelis (left) and Christian Etienne 

Cream of Broccoli with Oyster

Crispy Vegetable Tartine

If you're going to Avignon...

...anytime soon, whatever you do, don't miss the wonderful exhibition of the Spanish (or, to be precise, Catalan) artist Miquel Barcelo at the Collection Lambert, the only museum of contemporary art in Provence worth a visit. Although one could image that this fantastic and much photographed sculpture right in front of the Pope's Palace would lead the crowds into the exhibition, yesterday and from what I hear most days Barcelo's paintings and sculptures can be enjoyed without any queuing at all.

Having fun in front of the Pope's Palace

Barcelo's Elephant

The show is still on until november 7th and right now there are big discussions going on in Avignon whether to keep the elephant or not. Just in case anyone is interested: my vote goes towards keeping him - seems he makes everyone smile and that can only be a good thing, right?

Collection Lambert, 5 Rue Violette, 84000 Avignon, Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 6 pm