Whenever I go to Marseille I never miss going to see the fishmongers at the Vieux Port. Not only because you get to see real interesting species there but also because the Vieux Port is one of the most picturesque and beautiful places in this much (and undeservedly) maligned town.
When I recently went again I found a tiny stall selling this:
Claiming they were porte bonheurs (good luck charms) and telling me to always carry one in my money bag, the old lady selling them then showed me a little sign telling the story behind these "Eyes of St. Lucie".
In the fourth century Lucie sees her mother overcome a serious illness thanks to her prayers to the Virgin Mary. In order to give thanks she rips out her eyes and throws them into the sea. Moved by her devotion the Virgin Mary returns the eyesight to Lucie and makes her eyes even more beautiful and luminous than before. Ever since, these brightly orange tinted mussel gill covers are being associated with good luck and prosperity. This being most certainly true for the vendor who sells these somewhat fishy charms at one Euro a piece.....
